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Will we survive the coming hop-ocalypse? Only if we can navigate the clickbait

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Just Tapped

Do you have a headline filter? You probably should. These days it is hard for publishers and editors to resist the allure of clickbait. Many news consumers refuse to read beyond the headline unless it is shocking, frightening, or controversial. “Scare the crap out of me, or really piss me off, and maybe I will bother to read the story.” Therefore, when beer-related news finds its way into the mainstream media, look out. With that being said, let’s get to it.

Rising to face the hop-ocalypse

Smart people in lab coats recently published a scientific study of climate change's impact on the future of Europe's hop crop. You can read the actual report here. It presents some bleak news, but the report doesn't tell the whole story. It did, however, provide an opportunity for a lot of news outlets to create some entertaining clickbait, like these real headlines:

  • "The climate crisis is coming for your hoppy beer" (CNN)

  • "The hop-ocalypse - will beer be climate change's next victim?" (MSN)

  • "Climate change could make beer taste worse" (BBC)

  • "Germany's Oldest Hops Thrived for Centuries. Then Came Climate Change" (NYT)

That last headline is probably the closest to the truth. The "oldest hops" may not survive the hop-ocolypse; however, many of the world’s newer hops were bred with a drier future in mind. Most of the stories we've seen focus on the report's conclusions, offering them as evidence that the sky is falling, but fail to mention how the industry is addressing the now-expected future.

The report published by Nature Communications studied European hop-growing regions and some old-world hops like Hallertau, Spalt, and Tettnang. Presumably, hop growers in Europe were very much aware of the situation before geeks in lab coats showed up with clipboards and safety goggles. Hop farmers in Washington and Oregon, where the vast majority of the USA's hop crop is grown, are certainly aware of the looming impact of climate change.

Here and abroad, today's hop farmers are “growing smarter,” as they like to call it. They're utilizing innovative ways to use less water without reducing crop yield, for instance. Hop breeders continue to work on new varieties that are better suited to survive the hop-ocalypse, including some new varieties that promise to offer the same characteristics as old-world hops like Hallertau, Spalt, and Tettnang. Brewers are brewing smarter too, using innovative new hop products and hopping techniques that allow them to use fewer hops and still get the hoppy kick that beer drinkers crave.

The sky is not falling, but it is not hyperbole to say that the future will present many climate-related challenges for all forms of agriculture. Yes, hop and barley farmers face challenges, but so too do wheat, soybean, corn, rice, and all other types of farmers who feed the world. Let's not forget that.

As for hops, understand that really smart people are working really hard to meet the looming challenges. We know that some of those smart and hard-working people --brewers and hop suppliers-- are regular readers of The Taster Tray, so if anyone wants to point us to some stories about innovations and hope, you know how to reach us.

Beer Sales Get a Bump in Q3

The latest report from Bump Williams Consulting (BWC) showed a “slightly more promising outlook for craft” in the third quarter of this year. Craft beer dollar sales increased 1% year-over-year (YoY) in Q3, which concluded at the end of September. While +1% is not exactly impressive, it does mark an improvement over last quarter when craft was down -0.3%. These quarterly reports are based on NIQ-tracked off-premise channels--things that go “beep” at the register.

New Belgium was the top growth leader again.

One of the more interesting things revealed by the last several BWC quarterly reports is the continuing importance of the convenience store channel. It is the only channel where craft posted increased dollar sales. Apparently, New Belgium’s high-ABV beers sold in 19.2-ounce cans are flying off the shelf at the local mini-mart. There are a lot more numbers and details in the report (read about it here, on Brewbound).

Three cheers for Three Floyds!

Three Floyds Brewing of Munster, Indiana says that it will open a new taproom next year. It's big news from the brewery which has a well-established following of fans across the entire nation/world. During the pandemic, Three Floyds permanently closed its brewpub leaving the beer pilgrims with no place to pilgrimage to.

“Three Floyds Brewpub is being re-forged as a modern American Taproom and Beer Garden. The new Three Floyds Taproom design combines and celebrates the elements of the land, including Indigenous mound building berms and prairie landscape, mixed with Frank Lloyd Wright’s influence."

Nick Floyd, owner and CEO at Three Floyds Brewing.

The company is constructing a big, campus-like beer hall right next to the brewery. If this story sounds familiar, that's because Three Floyds made the same announcement several years ago, but those plans were thwarted by the pandemic. Now, they're picking up where they left off. They've yet to set an exact, or even expected, opening date. Read the complete story here on Craft Brewing Business.

Say What?

In response to last week’s newsletter, parker.corey@... said: “Maybe it was a light news week, but there was too much local Seattle news about breweries a lot of us (okay, me) have never heard of. But I love the newsletter and look forward to the next one.”

Last week’s newsletter featured two stories about breweries in Washington state. We try not to focus on our own backyard, but sometimes it happens. When it does, know that we are looking for stories elsewhere and we beg your indulgence. As always, we appreciate the feedback.

This week's Taster Tray was composed by Kendall Jones.